Davenport's Chocolates
Burgers of Marlow then and now

Goodbye Burgers Artisan Bakery.

Today, after trading since 1942, a small family business called ‘Burgers Artisan Bakery’ in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, is sadly closing its doors for the last time. Many of you will know that I trained and worked at Burgers (pronounced with a soft ‘g’, as if you were saying it in French). But many of you may not realise quite why it is just so special to me. And so, if you will indulge me for a few moments, I want to take you on a trip down memory lane.

 

An early photo of the bakery at Burgers of Marlow.

When my family moved to Marlow in 1981, we had been living in Germany and Switzerland for 3 years, due to my father’s engineering work placements at the time.

We had no prior connection to Marlow; no relatives or friends to help us settle in. But as we began to find our feet, we were delighted to find that there was a Swiss bakery and tea room at one end of the High Street. We immediately felt a sense of affinity, and were able to continue having a continental breakfast, picking up fresh bread and croissants every Saturday morning.

 

A family favourite

Burgers became a family favourite in our household. Throughout our school days, my brother and I would be taken for an ‘end of term’ treat in the tearoom. A polished glass counter, with stacks of beautiful chocolates in rows, always caught my eye. To my embarrassment, I am often reminded that, as a young child, I used to walk to the other side of the shop, to see from a distance if any chocolates had been dropped on the floor that day. Then, if I carefully came up close to the chocolate counter, I would sometimes be able to reach one, and feel like I’d found a little treasure!

We even had a school trip to visit there when I was 8 or 9, and I got to see behind the scenes for the first time. It was my first glimpse of the chocolate enrober that I am still using to this day.

Later on, as I was studying at Exeter University, I worked at Burgers for a summer, serving in the shop, and enjoying the delights of being around real Swiss chocolates. I became very familiar with every product, always curious to see how things were made, and occasionally allowed to help with the chocolate enrobing.

However, it was only after university, when I was really looking at what career path to take, that I realised how fundamental my love of chocolate was. It seemed that it would be really purposeful to do something that I loved. While my fellow students were stepping into proper graduate jobs, I wrote a letter to Bernard Burger, and asked if there would be any opportunity to come and learn how to make chocolates. He invited me for an 'interview' and I stepped into the delightfully messy office on the first floor, with the most lovely view into Higginson Park. Bernard and Philippe were willing to take me on, though none of us quite knew what this would look like. I think they were equally proud to employ a 'graduate' for the first time.

 

Learning my craft

I began to shadow Philippe as he worked, and soon he’d begin to let me make chocolates, while he watched. Gradually, I improved in skill and confidence. Philippe was not like Gordon Ramsey. I don’t think he ever got cross at me, or even raised his voice. He was a gentle tutor, a humble and kind man. He took my mistakes in his stride, and showed me how to put them right.

An article from a local publication showing a young Jane working with Philippe.

I would spend half my time in Bernard's office, learning how a small business works, and trying to help where I could. I’d make spreadsheets to analyse sales from one year to another, and design packaging ranges for the chocolates, order supplies and ingredients, and make deliveries in the van.

Bernard is hard to describe. Very hard working, very principled, with a great sense of duty, and care for his family. I think he sometimes let off steam with me, as I was a placid sounding board, whom he knew he could trust. I saw all the hard work and effort that Bernard gave to running the business over the years, and it instilled a great sense of loyalty from me. He was ultimately very encouraging and enabling of me, when I wanted to try our new ideas or ways of doing things. I just gradually got used to ignoring the initial pessimistic outburst, hoping he’d come round to my idea in the end. By the end of my time there, I’d say I almost looked forward to his sardonic smile, which I would return with a bigger grin, knowing that I would have to work hard to persuade him, but would probably eventually get there.

 

Starting Davenport's Chocolates

When I finally left Burgers after 7 years, Philippe & Bernard helped me start Davenport’s Chocolates by bequeathing me the chocolate enrober, still the heart of our business today. They also agreed that I could supply them with chocolates, and became my first customer. It would have been so much harder to start a business without these two factors.  

I really only got to know Rachel Burger (Bernard’s daughter) when I had left. She joined the business to help her father, and we have got to know each other well over the years, with a little catch-up every time she rang up to order more chocolates.

 

Jane with Bernard and Rachel

But those are phone calls I’m not going to get anymore. I’ve delivered my last chocolates to this wonderful, wonderful family business, and I am so proud to have been part it. I’m really going to miss it. My thanks to the Burger Family, with very best wishes to each and every one of them. It's been a very special part of my life, and career as a chocolatier, and I am very grateful to Philippe and Bernard Burger for the opportunities they have given me.


Jane with Philippe and his wife Shirley